ZIMBABWE REFLECTIONS

Historical overview.

The area known today as Zimbabwe has been inhabited for thousands of years but a written record is lacking. Today’s native tribes are descended form the first peoples and bushmen have left traces of their inhabitation of the land. the oldest stone age artifacts found sate to 500,000 years ago. The oldest structures found are in south east Zimbabwe. Large stone buildings and walls, named Great Zimbabwe, date to 1000 years ago (estimates differ). There is no definitive proof who constructed Great Zimbabwe. Some theories point to Arab traders and slavers who did open east, and southern, Africa in the early AD era. Other theories point to native African tribes which today are the Shona and Matabele in Zimbabwe. 1000 to 1500 years ago the Bantu people came into the area and pushed out the bushmen who relocated to the Kalahari Desert of Namibia and Botswana.

During the time of the construction of Great Zimbabwe, the area was a trading center for gold, glass, porcelain, copper, soapstone carvings, and diamonds. Trade routes went to the near east, India, and China with Arab traders being the middle men. this trade, as well as the slave trade, continued into the mid-1600 to 1800s and ended with European colonization.

By the mid-1800s the continent of Africa was being carved up by European countries and it was England who colonized today’s Zimbabwe. Then, Southern Rhodesia as it was known then, was named for Cecil Rhodes who was the financial backer of much of England’s colonization due to his interests in South Africa's diamond mines.

Southern Rhodesia (today’s Zambia was then Northern Rhodesia), became, as Winston Churchill said, the “breadbasket of Africa”. White farmers developed the land and exported food to the extent that, by the mid 1900s, Southern Rhodesia’s economy was the best in Africa. The Nuanetsi Ranch (cattle) was formed at this time and was among the largest ranches in the world--rivaling the King Ranch of Texas.

By the 1960s independence movements were spreading throughout Africa and Southern Rhodesia was no exception. Two opposing native black militant groups fought amongst themselves to wrest control from the white colonial governments. Robert Mugabe’s ZANU-PF (Zimbabwe African National Union-Popular Front) was the victor both in his fight with the other black independence movement as well as against the colonial rule. It was not “politically correct” at the time to support the white minority governments and England and the world did not support the whites in Southern Rhodesia.

The early 1980s saw black majority rule and the country was renamed Zimbabwe after the stone ruins of the same name. For nearly 20 years black and  white Zimbabweans worked side by side to continue the countries leading role in African economics. However, the greed of the leaders of Zimbabwe began to manifest itself and by 2000 the country began an economic downfall. Now, Zimbabwe boasts the worst economy in the world and the highest inflation in history.

Robert Mugabe.

The current president and leader of Zimbabwe since the early 1980s is R. Mugabe. During the 1970s Mugabe’s ZANU-PF party became victorious in the struggle for majority rule. Joshua Nkomo, the leader of the opposing black party, was made vice president but was more of a puppet position for the Mugabe regime. For two decades blacks and whites lived in relative harmony in Zimbabwe mainly because during the colonial rule days the whites treated the black majority quite well. (Certainly not like the apartheid days of South Africa where shootings and jailing of blacks were commonplace). Due to mismanagement, Zimbabwe’s economy began to decline and shortages of food and fuel began to disappear. In addition maintenance was poor on the roadways and repairs were slow when phone, electric, and water/sewer became disabled. As the population began to mumble against his rule, Mugabe declared the vets of the war for majority rule would be given free land--land confiscated from white farmers. This, of course, brought great support from the poorer sections of the population--most of which were too young to take part in the war for independence.

As land was taken from white farmers and ranchers the economy began a tail spin with the government printing money to compensate. More shortages and fewer foreign dollars caused a worsening of the economy. As the people became disgruntled, Mugabe used the army to bring order to his country. In his early 80s now, he is ready to give control over to his generals and fears arise that Zimbabwe’s situation could get worse. When I was in South Africa in 2003, a news report stated that Mugabe out bid Michael Jackson for a vacation castle in Germany. At the same time, South African television adds showed Mugabe in front of a dung and grass hut with an elderly lady and some starving cattle. He stated that due to white geed ruining the economy he, even as president, could not afford better accommodations for his mother!

Gerry Whitehead.

Gerry, his wife, Rose, and their three children (now grown) are citizens of several generations in Zimbabwe. Gerry owns an engineering company in the southeastern town of Chiredzi. (An engineering company there would be a machine shop here in the states). Gerry repairs farm equipment from the local farms and ranches as well as rebuilds petrol and diesel engines. In addition, he is a pilot with a Cessna 210 (pressurized) and owns a 15,000 acre ranch approximately a 15 minute flight from Chiredzi. The ranch, named Marakanga on the western bank of the Munezi river, had thousands  of of game animals and acres of citrus trees. Bird watchers, animal watchers, and hunters as well as fishermen came to the ranch for a vacation and the orange and grapefruit crops were sold to markets in Europe.

The Ranch was Gerry’s project and was featured in an article published in the African Hunter magazine by this author. Entitled ‘Paradise Found’ it is a story of forming a ranch out of a desert wasteland. A subsequent article entitled ‘Paradise Lost’ detailed the fall of the ranch with the 2000 proclamation of white-owned land to be given over to black families. (both articles are included herein). Gerry, is a very out spoken critic of Mugabe’s government and, therefore, was a target of police and military abuse--the details of which may be found in the enclosed articles. In December of 2007 his home was raided by 15 police officers and his rifles, shotguns, bows, ammunition, arrows and computers were confiscated. He  is deemed to be an enemy of the state.

Economy and currency.

During England’s colonial rule and early in the years of majority rule, the Zimbabwe dollar was traded 1:1 with the English pound. Banks around the world would trade in Zimbabwe dollars. Mild inflation set in and by 1990 (approximately) the Zimbabwe dollar was about 1/2 of the pound or 1:1 with the US dollar. In 1994 (my first trip to Zim) the ratio was 10:1 Zim-USD. 1997 saw 100:1 and 1999 the exchange rate was 1000:1. It was in 2000, when Mugabe publicly stated he wanted Zimbabwe to be a black African country with no white citizens, that the inflation rate spiraled out of control due to the white population being forced out of the country and the farms given to black Zimbabweans.

In the early 2000s the exchange rate grew from 1000:1 to 10,000:1.Zim-USD. July of 2005 saw 20,000:1 and by December it was 200,000:1. The government began printing money with no gold or foreign currency to support it. On July 31,  2006, the government recalled all currency and issued new currency that had three zeros removed from the monetary value. A $100,000,000 note was now a $100,000 dollar note. Within a few months the inflation caused the new notes to devalue even further. The joke in Zim was that a 500 Zim dollar note was worth less than one square of toilet tissue! In July of 2007 President Mugabe issued an order that all merchants must cut their prices by 50 % to lower the cost of goods. Many businesses closed and food and fuel became scarce. (See a sample of currency at the close of this paper).

During my visit i December of 2007, the inflation rate was estimated at 43%--per day!! The common $200,000 notes were replaced with $750,000 notes and I personally saw Zimbabwean currency used as rolling papers for tobacco and marijuana. It is less expensive to use some of the older notes for toilet paper.

Zimbabwe has no national reserves of gold or currency as it has been taken by the ruling leaders. Exports, sold for foreign exchange and the currency deposited into the foreign bank accounts of the leaders. Citizens who want to buy Zimbabwe cement must go to Botswana (and pay a duty to bring it back into the country).

Hunting.

Hunting brings in more foreign currency to Zimbabwe than any other industry. Tourism is falling due to lack of infrastructure thereby making touring the country difficult. Hunting, however, is not only high-dollar ($60-100,000 for a big game hunt including lion, elephant, hippo, buffalo, and leopard), but hunters can “rough it in the bush” and not need the amenities that make vacations comfortable for the average tourist. Due to Zimbabwe’s income from hunting, Mugabe has not allowed the “war vets” access to government hunting blocks.

While the international community states that many animals are “endangered”, Zimbabwe’s elephant population is far in excess of what the land can accommodate. Estimates state that 1/2 of the country’s elephants need to be culled for the land to be able to sustain them. Even with unregulated poaching, the animal populations continue to grow but the habitat destruction from the increasing human population is leaving less and less space for the wild animals to live. In one 800 square mile block are I hunted during 2003, six bull elephants are allowed to be taken by hunters but 40 were poached in one month. (The three poachers were caught and executed. Their bodies were boated across the Zambezi River and dumped on the north shore as the three were from Zambia).

Legal system.

With the onset of the present dictator, the legal system exists in name only. The courts are corrupt in siding with the political power in finding innocence or guilt. The same with the police department. Several years ago, the last remaining newspaper with a opposition to the government was burned to the ground one evening. The police investigated for a few days and closed their investigation after finding no evidence. In other cases, people are convicted on circumstantial evidence if in opposition to the government. The condition of prisons are beyond belief. Several men in one small cell with a 5 gallon bucket for toilet facilities. Food may consist of bread, old soup, and water. Medical care in prisons is nonexistent. Medicines and food can be bought in by family or friends but should be given directly to the inmate or else it will be taken by the guards or superintendent. As in all third world countries, bribes are the most efficient (and best understood) method of making something happen.

Human rights.

Bill Clinton is a favorite American politician of the Zimbabwe people as he refused a visit to Zimbabwe when offered by President Mugabe due too the countries human rights violations. Basically, one should agree with the government (or at least keep one’s mouth shut) or one forfeits the rights of safety and freedom. The government in Zimbabwe is all-powerful with no other body to check its power. The leaders of Zimbabwe are among the richest men in the world.

Safety.

Far better than the crime capitol south Africa, Zimbabwe is relatively safe. Murders are low but thefts (as in all poor countries) is high. Other violent crimes, such as rape, are statistically low but many crimes in the remote areas are not reported. As a tourist, I felt very safe in my daily walks around the city of Bulawayo. The police respond when called, but any ensuing investigation may be quite slow.

Migration out of Zimbabwe.

Beginning in 2000, a mass migration of all aspects of the population began. Low income and low educated black peoples went to neighboring South Africa for a better life. Many making the unsupervised trek across Kruger National Park. With no police or military to stop their passage many safely made it to a new location. However, lions dined on 2 to 6 people per night (on average) due to the park’s unpopulated vastness. Professionals, both black and white, immigrated out with doctors, lawyers, and engineers leaving by the hundreds.

Cliffe and Debbie.

A middle aged white couple with three children and two grand children. Debbie's mother lives with them as her late husband’s pension was cut to approximately 90 cents per month after serving a lifetime on the state railroad. (Black pensioners checks were not cut). Unable to find decent-paying work even though Cliffe is a top quality mechanic, he now works in Botswana to send money home to his family. He is able to visit once or twice a year. His children all attended private schools and live a comfortable life...by modern Zimbabwe standards. Food and fuel shortages do not affect the family to the extent of others due to the access to foreign currency.

Gary and Crystal.

Close, personal friends of mine, Gary is my Professional Hunter and his wife, Crystal, runs the business when he is away hunting in the bush about 7 months of the year). Gary’s father is a retired policeman and artist and his mother is a bank officer. Gary grew up in Zim and went to private schools were he played Rugby and dreamed of a life in the bush hunting big game. The shortages of goods and the economic downfall have caused Gary to move his hunting operations to Tanzania. He still will hunt in Zim if a client requests and it is his Tanzanian off season. Gary and his wife love Zim and could not imagine living anywhere else. But, like all smart citizens, he is keeping all options open.

White Citizenry.

It has been very difficult to be a white citizen of Zimbabwe since President Mugabe’s declaration that the country throw off all remembrances of white rule and that white citizens are not welcome in the country. It is illegal for whites to strike a black, use ethnic slurs (but not vice-versa), and any business must have a black partner that owns 51% of the company. Those who depart Zimbabwe are forbidden to take any money or valuables with them and can only take with them what the airlines will allow as baggage. There are no pension or retirement  plans for whites and those with pensions have had them cut back drastically (Crystal’s mother gets a 90 cent check for her late husband’s service on the railroad). Those few white who have managed to hold onto their property do so by giving generously to the political party in power. The general population get along quite well--blacks and whites work together--but the political situation tries to stir up troubles between the races by recalling some abuses of the colonial rule.

Availability of goods.

With the downfall of the economy shortages of basic goods are common. Department stores with row after row of shelf space may now only stock one bottle of perfume. Grocery store shelves are bare except for the basics that are produced in the country--tobacco, sugar, some vegetables, and meat. Imported items are very rare due to the nonexistent exchange rate between Zimbabwe’s currency and other countries. Fuel is rationed and much is brought into the country from Botswana. If caught, the importer is fined, jailed and his fuel confiscated--which is sold on the black market by the police! If the police are caught, the fuel is confiscated and sold on the black market by the government officials! Imported goods are levied a duty of 100% so most Zimbabweans can’t afford imported goods. Many times, international aid such as medicine and food are brought in via the Cape to Cairo highway via a convoy of trucks from South Africa. The goods are then returned to Sough Africa and sold to merchants in that country by the government of Zimbabwe who pockets the money.

Neighboring Countries.

Most of Zimbabwe’’s neighbors are doing well. South Africa is stable and is the largest economy on the continent. Namibia is stable and its currency is trade 1:1 with the South African Rand. Botswana has a small population but is rich in natural resources and is one of Africa’s strongest economies. Zambia welcomed the farmers Zimbabwe kicked out and their country is doing fine. Once, the Zambian quacha was traded 2000:1 against the US dollar and was laughed at in Zimbabwe. Now things have reversed and Zambia’s economy is much stronger now that thousands of Zimbabwean white farmers are now working in Zambia as that country gave them 100 year leases on land with tax breaks  to get them to settle there.

Geography:

Zimbabwe borders Zambia to the north, Mozambique to the east, South Africa to the south, and Botswana to the west.

Three major geographical areas divide the country. The highveld, 4-5000 feet in elevation, covers approximately 1/4 of the country from the southwest to the northeast. Inyanga Mountain is the highest point at 8503 feet. The middle veld, 3-4000 feet, coves an additional 40 percent of the country and is a transition to the lowveld in the north (Zambezi Valley) to the southeast.

The Zambezi river is the northern boundary with Zambia and is where Lake Kariba and the Kariba dam are located. The Limpopo River drains the south with the Sabi River. These three rivers are the three main rivers of Zimbabwe and empty into the Indian Ocean.

Education.

Basic elementary education is compulsory in Zimbabwe through 16 years of age. If affordable, private schools are where families chose to send their children. Standards differ, however. A white student has to pass with a 50% average. A black student’s passing score is 30%. This is to encourage black children to stay in school. The average public school is reminiscent of the rural Southern black schools in the US in the first half of the last century or an inner city urban school. Poor quality equipment, a shortage of books, and low pay that will not attract quality educators is the rule. However, each student wears a uniform and looks wonderful--each school having its own color scheme.

Medical school.

Zimbabwe’s medical school is certainly not up to American standards, but it is needed now, more than ever in the past, to supply the country with men and women in the medical profession. Physicians in need of additional training take post graduate courses in Europe, the US or Canada, Asia, or the Caribbean medical schools. Many graduates, after taking advantage of the low cost tuition in Zimbabwe do migrate to other countries to practice. (I looked into the medical school so I could live in and travel in Zim and help the remote populations. I had to pay a $2500 USD fee as a nonreturnable application fee. Cash only. I declined).

Natural resources.

Zimbabwe does not have oil, much coal, or natural gas, but it is still rich in farmland, fish (from Lake Kariba), and animals. Within the past few years a discovery of both industrial and gem quality diamonds have been found in the southern section of the country. The government, however, is privately mining and selling the diamonds for their own profit. In addition, gold has been mined for over 500 years and sold to Arab traders. Today, Zimbabwe mines up to 60 tons of gold annually. the gold, however, does not go into the national banks or treasury, but is sold to South African gold traders and the profit is pocketed by the government officials.

Lake Kariba.

Built in the 1950s, Kariba Dam was then the largest undertaking in Africa to supply hydroelectric power to North and South Rhodesia. The resulting Lake is the largest man-made lake on the continent. Many villages and towns were relocated or simply buried by the waters but now the lake and the shore’s flood plain are home to countless animals and a large fishing industry has grown. Locals and tourists alike boat on the lake, sport fish, and bird watch. The Zambezi River that flows to Lake Kariba is one of southern Africa’s major waterways and watersheds. Throughout history the river was a boundary between tribes, colonial countries, and a water route to the interior. Today several companies supply boat tours of the river and it is also a rich hunting destination. The lake is over 100 miles long and as much as 20 miles wide.

Places to go.

Zimbabwe is not noted for a vast variety of tourist destinations, but what is there is spectacular. Great Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls are the most common. Biking the country is restful with bed and breakfasts in the towns but can be dangerous due to traffic and theft. Not many game ranches are remaining due to the departure of the white farmers and ranchers. Hunting is the most popular tourist attraction. Due to the bush veld, Zimbabwe does not have the large herds of plains game found in Tanzania and Kenya on the Serengeti.

Stories.

A friend of Gary Hopkins, also a professional Hunter, was tracking a wounded elephant in the winter of 2005 (the same year Gary and I hunted in Zim). An experienced PH he never the less made the error of not watching the signs ahead  of him. The elephant reached through some thick bush and grabbed him with the trunk. He was lifted high over the elephant’s head and slammed to the ground. Hopefully this killed him as then the elephant stepped on his upper half and pulled him in two at the waist, stomped the upper torso into the earth and tossed the hips and legs into the brush.

In 1997 a news story in southeastern Zim was about two high school boys found dead by the roadside. Their foreheads were chopped open and their brains removed. No doubt it was for a witch doctor’s ritual cannibalistic ceremony. The police were at a dead end when a man came forward with a complaint about a local witch doctor. The doctor commissioned him to kill the boys and take the brains but he did not pay the man for doing so. The man complained to the police about not being paid for a task completed and the crime was solved.

When in Africa I like to sleep outside if at all possible. I do not do so, however, in lion country. The African sky is beautiful with more stars visible in the southern hemisphere than in the northern. One night, on the banks of the Limpopo River on the South Africa and Botswana border, was wakened by a fight between a leopard and a baboon. They have been arch enemies since creation. I went to sleep hearing the baboons and rock rabbits (a woodchuck on the east coast of America) yelp and bark as the leopard made his nightly rounds. (this in one way to follow a leopard’s movement at night--by the sounds). He was moving a a circle several hundred yards from camp and I was in my cot at the edge of the campfire. The sounds of the baboons and rock rabbits moved across the veldt with the movement of the leopard. With these sounds I drifted off to sleep. The I was awakened as the leopard caught a baboon and a battle ensued. Dozens of baboons were in the trees barking at the leopard who was killing one of their mates. The noise was deafening. When all quieted down, the leopard won and moved off after his meal. This was in 2005. Also, when I awoke at first light, I saw some fresh elephant tracks a few yards from by bed.

In 2006 I was hunting big game in Tanzania. One of my animals taken was a 13-foot crocodile on the banks of the Kilombero River in the Selous game reserve. An average crocodile but fun none the less. A few miles upstream another hunter shot a larger crocodile and, when skinned, noted his stomach seemed quite full--bloated almost. News in the area was that a village man was missing from his fishing day and so the hunter and his guide opened the croc’s stomach to see if the missing man was in there. Yes! And, photos were published in the African Hunter Magazine. An arm, leg, head, two hands, and some of the rib cage had been torn from the body and swallowed whole. (The teeth of a crocodile don’t shear flesh. They grab and hold while the crocodile drowns his prey. The victim is allowed to rot under a submerged log until it can be torn in swallow-able pieces and ingested). Photos enclosed.

South Africa, 2003. I wanted a giraffe rug and skull for my home so I had made plans to hunt one. A large ranch had an old bull that was keeping younger bulls from breeding and he needed to be taken out of the herd. This I did and I enjoy looking at my memories every day. While on the ranch, another bull giraffe was bitten on the lower leg my the deadly black mamba snake. (So named by the color of the inside of his mouth). The 3000+ pound giraffe was dead in 45 minutes! Can you imagine what that much poison would do to a 175-pound man? It is said one is dead before he can open his anti-venom kit!

Only two recorded stories of people bitten by mambas have survived are available for reading. One, a young boy and the other a game warden who specialized in snakes. Both had one thing in common--they were comatose for a few days. Unable to move at all they were both aware of their surroundings and cold hear and understand people talking around them. In the game warden’s case, he was lying on the hospital bed naked. The doctors said he was dead and were preparing to do what doctors do when a patient dies. A specialist, who heard about the case, called the hospital and told the doctors the man may be, indeed, alive and to wait for him to come there. Whilst this was transpiring, some nurses were making comments (complementary, I hope) about he man’s genitals. A day or two later the man awoke and was able to recall the conversations about his death and the  nurses’ comments. Needless to say, the ladies were quite embarrassed as he was able to know who said what by the sound of their voices! I will try to get a copy of this article when in South Africa this year to enclose here.

My first trip to Zimbabwe was in 1994 to hunt for buffalo and antelope. With me was a PH, a tracker, a skinner, one to carry provisions, and a game scout. The scout carries an automatic weapon. His job is to make sure I do not shoot anything not on my license and to look out for poachers. Following tracks on the dry Chorowe River, we rounded a bend and came across a man with some tools and some wire. The expression on the man’s face turned to fear as the game scout took this machine gun off his shoulder. If the man was setting snares he would have been shot on the spot per Zimbabwe’s tough anti-poaching law. The man had been, and showed us, putting a small fence around his garden next to this hut a short distance off in the bush. He lived! If there was not garden, I would have whitened my first execution.

1998 was the only time I was truly scared--frightened--in Africa. I was sleeping in my quarters--short, stone walls with a high-pitched thatch roof. The window openings are covered by wire to keep out everything from pythons, vipers, and other nasties and was about the level of my head whilst on my bunk. My head was close to the wired opening to get some cool breezes. I awoke to the loudest scream I have ever heard! I was fumbling around for my rifle in the dark, could not find my flashlight, and wondering who could have been killed as it sounded like a human scream. And, I mean it was bloodcurdling! The tracks the next day told the story. The camp cat was sleeping on the window opening outside of the screen. A leopard saw her and planned an evening meal. The leopards tracks told the story. He sprang and his front right and two rear paws hit the dirt. He used his lift paw to swipe the cat from her perch next to my head. The cat screamed her last, the leopard had a midnight snack, and I was trembling in the dark!

I learned that one common anti-poaching method does not work--that of capturing rhino and cutting off the horn. Logic would dictate that a poacher will not kill a valueless rhino. Not true. They are killed anyway so the poacher won’t spend time following a track that will lead to a worthless animal

Another fact. The only areas in Africa that have large game populations are those with active hunting areas. There, the animals have a value so the governments put a lot of time and money (from hunting fees) into making sure the animals are protected and populate. In areas and countries that have no hunting--such as Kenya which banned all sport hunting in 1974--the animals have no value and are open to poaching and land development by an ever growing population. In a six hour drive in Zimbabwe to the hunting areas I did not see any wildlife. None. When I got to the hunting areas, game was everywhere.

Statistics and other information:

Area:

150, 872 square miles. About the size of Montana.

Population:

11,000,000. 70% Shona, 25% Ndeble, <5% White, Indian, mixed, and other.

Capital city:

Harare, population 2,000,00 Largest city:

Harare

Religion:

75% Christian in whole or in part. 25% Muslim or tribal religions.

Official language:

English.

Natural resources:

Chrome, copper, nickel, gold, asbestos, iron ore, sugar, corn, tobacco, peanuts, soybeans, wheat, cotton, coffee, tea. Dairy, cattle, and wood to satisfy domestic needs (barely). Hunting is still large and growing. Tourism is declining.

USA Embassy in Harare:

172 Herbert Road. Telephone: 728-957

AIDS:

My eyes were opened in 2003 when, during the 18-hour flight between Atlanta and Johannesburg, I sat next to an international AIDS researcher. He stated that, while AIDS is an epidemic, it is not at the level reported by the national and international news. Heavily infected areas are 25%, not 80%+. It is true that many thousands of young Zimbabweans are orphaned due to AIDS, the reports of an entire generation dying out are greatly exaggerated. With that being said, Africa is NOT the place to look for romance. AIDS education is common in populated areas but many villages and communities are so far off the grid that educators as well as general medical professionals rarely visit. If kids grow up without a band-aid to put on a minor cut, what is the chance they will be educated to AIDS?

Medical care.

Once at the top of Africa’s medical system, Zimbabwe now has a major shortage of doctors and nurses. From specialists to primary care doctors, most have departed the country for greener pastures. Those that remain either love their country dearly or cannot practice in other countries due to lack of training and/or license. Prescription drugs are difficult to obtain. Those have the financial reserves go to South Africa for care and medicine.

Infrastructure.

What infrastructure remaining is a holdover from the colonial days. Major roads are paved but upkeep and maintenance is poor. Water, sewer, power, and phone in the urban areas is there but is down several times a week and repairs take days. Public transportation is sketchy and not advisable for foreign travelers. Major hotels have back up power systems (generators) so guests remain somewhat comfortable.

Getting there:

International air service is from Johannesburg in South Africa with daily flights. Nearly every major airline lands at Jo’burg. One or two European countries fly directly into Harare once or twice per week. Zimbabwe is serviced by Air Zimbabwe which flies to several countries in Southern or eastern Africa.

Arrival procedures:

You will deplane on the tarmac and walk to the airport building in Harare, Bulawayo, or Victoria Falls (the three international airports in the country). Your first stop will be to pay the $30 US Visa and correct change is required as no change is given for larger bills. Then, you will pick up your baggage and proceed to passport control and then to customs for declaration and baggage inspection. The flights are small and the procedure is quick and painless.

Departure procedures:

Check in with your ticket and baggage. Then, proceed to passport control for your exit stamp, turn in any Zimbabwean currency you may have, pay your $30 US exit fee, and then go through screening to the waiting area. Again, quite quick and simple.

Other information for visitors:

Major cities are  linked by rail. Travel first class for comfort. Private air charters are common for domestic flights. The road system is quite good with little traffic due to the shortage of fuel. You may have to wait days in case of a breakdown. Taxis are available in the cities as is bus service. major hotels are in the cities and b&b are available in many locations. Fewer and fewer places accept credit cards but major hotels and airlines will.

HISTORY LESSON(S)

I think the best lesson I could give teenage students is to show them the myths of Africa during and after the White rule (i.e. to move away from the political correctness and show reality).

I would begin my asking the students to write on the board identifiers of civilization. I would be looking for the following: medical care, economy, education, laws to protect the citizenry, infant mortality, average life expectancy, court system. military and police, environment protection, use of natural resources, infrastructure (water, power, food distribution), communications, trade, preservation of history, individual freedoms. etc.,

Next, I would ask the students to discuss what, if any, of the above were in effect before the colonial period. (Of course, the answer would be “none” as the civilizations were basically stone-age in their development).

Then, after several days of computer and library research, I would ask the class to write a paper or give a talk about how the above list came into being during the rule of European powers (namely Germany, Belgium, England, Portugal). This would take some time as to go in-depth would bake a  lot or research.

Most important is the last lesson(s). I would now have the students research how the above identifiers of civilization are now part of the average African’s daily life in a few selected countries: Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa, Mozambique, Congo, Angola, and others.

The point I will try to make is that while the world looks favorably on majority rule, many (if not all) of the identifiers of civilization have taken several steps backward since the end of white, or colonial, rule.

During colonial rule in Zimbabwe, England abolished tribal wars and cannibalism, made education mandatory, established medical care for all and decreed as early at the 1920s that basic services and care could not be withheld on the bases on race.

Posters on tourist destinations, major animal species

Rights of citizens--white and black--and tourists

Hunting effects on the economy and the animals